During World War II, oceanographer Harry Hess and his crew, aboard the USS Cape Johnson, scoured the western Pacific Ocean in search of enemy submarines.
By timing echoes generated by sonar “pings,” or sound waves, they measured the depth of the ocean in hopes of finding minor discrepancies in data that might indicate a submarine’s presence. But those readings also revealed something much bigger—seamounts, or underwater volcanic mountains rising more than 1,000 meters (3,300 feet) from the seafloor.
The vast information Hess and his team collected laid the foundation for continued seafloor exploration. With Hess's data as a starting point, American geologists Marie Tharp and Bruce Heezen published some of the first detailed maps of the ocean floor in the 1950s and '60s. They provided visual evidence for what became Hess’ theory of seafloor spreading, in which tectonic plates in the Earth move apart at mid-ocean ridges and form new crust. It helps explain geologic phenomena, ranging from continental drift to earthquakes to the formation of mountains.
“It was a paradigm shift in our understanding of Earth processes,” says Larry Mayer, professor and director of the Center for Coastal and Ocean Mapping at the University of New Hampshire. “It was the first time one theory really explained almost all of the processes we see in the ocean and on land.”
Early Attempts to Measure Ocean Depths
As British explorer James Clark Ross embarked on a voyage to chart the Antarctic coastline in 1840, he made some of the earliest attempts to measure the depth of the ocean. But a lack of advanced technology often resulted in inaccurate measurements. Initially, scientists tried to measure seafloor depth by lowering a weighted hemp rope over the side of their ships and measuring its length. In 1872, a newly invented piano-wire sounding system allowed for quicker and more reliable calculations.
Systematic efforts to map the seafloor continued during the British-led, 1,000-day voyage of the HMS Challenger. In addition to providing new data about marine life and physical and chemical deep-sea conditions, the expedition’s findings hinted at the presence of a mountain chain dividing the eastern and western halves of the Atlantic Ocean.
“Certainly, before they developed acoustic soundings—which is sonar—there’s a lot of uncertainty in the depth of the seafloor because the methods weren't good enough,” says Heidi Dierssen, marine sciences professor at the University of Connecticut. “Once they discovered that they could use the speed of sound pretty accurately, it really revolutionized our understanding of Earth itself.”
According to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, the use of acoustic sounding systems began during World War I and the Coast and Geodetic Survey was regularly using sonar to map deep-water areas by the 1920s.
Sonar Mapping During World War II
During World War II, the United States paused most of its seafloor mapping efforts. The exception came when Hess, then a young Princeton University professor, joined the U.S. Navy as captain of the USS Cape Johnson. Equipped with the latest sonar technology, Hess was able to collect an unprecedented amount of data, rapidly and around the clock, as he and his crew searched for enemy submarines.