How Chickens and Humans Found Each Other
It’s no secret that the modern chicken (Gallus gallus domesticus) is a direct descendent of the red junglefowl (Gallus gallus), a wild bird native to Southeast Asia. But until recently, scientists weren’t sure when and how the red junglefowl was first domesticated.
Julia Best is a zooarchaeologist, which means that she analyzes ancient animal remains for clues about human-animal interactions in the past. Best is particularly interested in birds, including the now-ubiquitous chicken.
Putting a confident date on chicken domestication is a challenge—chickens could have descended from several junglefowl species—but Best and her colleagues were able to rule out the really early dates using radiocarbon dating and careful zooarchaeological analysis.
“There have been studies that suggested chicken domestication happened as far back as 10,000 years ago in China, but those turned out to be pheasant bones,” says Best. “It’s much more likely that domestication happened around 3,500 years ago (1500 B.C.) in Southeast Asia.”
The earliest unambiguous chicken bones identified by Best and her team were found at a Neolithic site called Ban Non Wat in central Thailand. It looks like agriculture was the key that unlocked chicken domestication. The bird bones at Ban Non Wat correspond with the advent of rice farming in Thailand. That tasty new food source may have brought humans and tree-dwelling junglefowl into closer contact.
“That shared food resource would have tempted the red junglefowl down from the trees and into the areas that humans were cultivating,” says Best, “which would start to break down that wild boundary.”
Once the red junglefowl were tamed, humans likely discovered the bird’s handy biological trick. Unlike some other bird species, which only lay eggs once a year in the spring, red junglefowl can lay multiple times, producing between two to four clutches a year. And if their first clutch of eggs is stolen, they can quickly re-lay to replace them.
Best points out that those first domesticated junglefowl were nothing like modern laying hens, which are egg-producing machines. But 1500 B.C. is now our best guess for when and how the human-chicken-egg relationship began.
Chickens and Chicken Eggs Weren’t Considered Food for a Long Time
It took more than 500 years for chickens to make their way to Europe. The eye-catching, red-feathered birds from Southeast Asia were transported along Greek, Etruscan and Phoenician trade routes and first arrived in Greece and Italy around 900 B.C.
What’s surprising, says Best, is that for centuries after the chicken’s introduction to Europe, nobody even thought about eating them.
“There seems to be a time lag of around 400 to 500 years in some locations between chickens arriving and then really being considered food,” says Best. “Instead, chickens seem to be treated as a special animal. Maybe it's because they're exotic and they've come from a distant land. I mean, if you'd never seen a chicken before, imagine how weird it would be.”
Best says that chickens may have also been important for social status and religion. The earliest chicken bones in Italy were found in tombs and cultic locations. In the ancient world, birds like cranes and crows were often buried with the dead to bear their souls to the afterlife. Chickens, too.
It wasn’t until around 500 B.C. that the Etruscan civilization in Italy first developed a taste for chickens and their eggs. Some of the earliest evidence of chicken eggs being eaten in Europe comes from a small hilltop town in Tuscany.
San Casciano dei Bagni is home to thermal baths that were a pilgrimage destination as far back as the 3rd century B.C. Visitors would leave offerings for the gods in exchange for a dip in the healing waters.
Archaeologists excavating the thermal baths at San Casciano have recovered impressive bronze statues, countless gold coins and thousands of eggshell fragments. In addition to eating the chicken eggs, it appears that some visitors tossed whole eggs into the baths, a nutritious treat worthy of the gods.
Egg-Eating Spread With the Roman Empire
Each time the chicken arrived in a new location—like Northern Europe and the British Isles—it was greeted as an exotic specimen, not a source of food. When Julius Caesar invaded France and Britain during the Gallic Wars (58 to 50 B.C.), he wrote this about the Britons: “They do not regard it lawful to eat the hare, and the cock, and the goose; they, however, breed them for amusement and pleasure.”
Caesar must have found the British abstention from chicken strange, because the Romans were actively gobbling down both chickens and their eggs.
“Ancient Romans ate many types of eggs: chicken eggs, duck eggs, partridge, goose, quail, pheasant, ostrich, crane, pigeon, and the most prized of all, peacock eggs,” says Almudena Villegas, a food historian and author. “Eggs were a common ingredient in the Roman diet and Roman markets had specialized egg sellers called oviarii.”
As the Roman Empire spread, so did the Roman diet, including a taste for eggs. The first clear evidence of egg-eating in Britain was limited to “Romanized” sites like military outposts, urban settings and amphitheatres, says Best.
At the Chester Amphitheatre in England, which dates from the first century A.D., archaeologists discovered loads of chicken eggshell fragments buried in the soil under the seats. Apparently, when people in Britain watched sporting events like gladiatorial combat and wrestling, they snacked on hard-boiled eggs, a Roman treat.
“We have frescoes and other images of market stalls selling food outside of amphitheatres, just like we might get a meat pie at a football match today,” says Best.
Beyond those Romanized sites, chickens and their eggs didn’t become a regular part of the British diet until the third century A.D.